A Bear on the Move

I'm hoping that this can be seen as a video. There's still a lot to learn about this blogging stuff! But, here is the black bear that we saw along the road from Haines Junction to Beaver Creek on Tuesday. We saw the grizzly first, and there are videos of him, too. But it's difficult to catch all this in the "heat of the moment" and still respect the wildlife and not get them used to people and vehicles. It's important for their survival. It was interesting to see that both the grizzly and this black bear actually looked both ways before crossing the road in front of our RV. I guess their mom's taught them well!

More Than Wildlife

There's obviously more to Alaska than wildlife and since none were waving at us as we drove to Fairbanks today we stopped to see one of the best views of the TransAlaska pipeline just outside of Delta Junction. It carries more than 11% of US crude, over 510,000 barrels a day. It's an eight hundred mile pipeline from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez. (Just a little social studies trivia for you)
After taking Bessie to a vet in Fairbanks (she was really stressed and we were worried about her), we drove about 60 miles east of Fairbanks to Chena Hot Springs Resort. It's the end of the Chena Springs Road with so many turnoffs for great fishing we want to try them all this weekend. But we were tired and wanted to get to the campground, which really is great as it's part of the resort, no hookups, but a beautful hot spring with showers, horseback riding, airplane rides (no plans for that), dog sledding and the world famous ice hotel. I've been told that the appletinis are terrific....We'll let you know later. So, here are Bernardo and Bessie, keeping away from the mosquitoes and working on the internet!

A Two Bear Day

Yesterday, we finally pulled ourselves away from Haines, with plans to return soon and as often as we can.  It's a long drive, but well worth the effort.

There were several pairs of humpbacked whales in the bay and we were told they were most likely a mom and her calf.  We caught this one near the boat.  The dog was barking madly as they approached the whales.  This bay was across from our campground.






The road from Haines to our next stop winds though incredible valleys with impressive views of several mountain ranges.  One of the inhabitants along this stretch and throughout Alaska, too, is the porcupine.  Unfortunately, it's hard to see them until you're almost next to them  But this one gave us more time, and Bernardo hopped out of the RV and watched it climb the tree.  Ifyou double-click the picture, it will enlarge (I've been told).

After stopping in Haines Junction (still in Yukon) to pick up some fresh baked goods for lunch, we set out for the next stop and then decided to go further....We're so glad of this, for we were rewarded with this wonderful grizzly.  He's snarling because another camper had stopped and several dogs were barking at him.  I can't believe Bernardo caught the moment.  But then he went on his way, trying to fill up on everything edible in sight.  He then hightailed across the road (and believe it or not actually looked both ways before crossing).

Several miles down the road we were treated with a black bear.  We couldn't believe our luck in seeing both bears in such a short span of time.  This one, too, lumbered along and picked up whatever bears eat in the grass and roadside.  He, too, looked up and down the road and then crossed to the other side.

T

Where to Next?

Takhini Hot Springs, Whitehorse Yukon. Whitehorse was a very pleasant surprise: a town of 25000, capital of the Yukon. We spent the day there (my birthday), had a terrific lunch and lots of fun at the local quilt shop. I think I need to quit buying more projects. Bessie got to have a much needed bath at the local pet store, shopped at Walmart (where else?) and bathed the RV. Now, here I am soaking at a very nice hot spring. It's still very early in the season, so we practically had the place to ourselves. I wouldn't want to be there when it's full!

The Alaskan Highway, outside of Whitehorse on the way to Haines Junction. This is pretty much the way it is; incredible scenery, wildlife from time to time, very nice roads except an occasional bad stretch.




Our campground in Haines Junction. The park was closed but we were told to camp there anyway. We were able to camp by the beach. This picture was taken early morning on the 18th. Yes, that's Bernardo fishing in the background.




This is where we find Bessie after walking around a town for a while. I think she'd like to ride up there permanently, but she's too long for the seat!


Yesterday afternoon, just outside of Haines, we saw this little bear wandering the beach all alone. At first everyone said his mother must be nearby. That was pretty exciting, but a few hours later he was still there. I talked to the local police and the bear cub had been reported by many people. The thought is that his mom either abandoned him or been killed. It is bear hunting season now, until mid-June, though sows are protected if they have cubs. But that doesn't always happen. Hopefully there will be a happy ending. The biologist in Juneau is coming up and will try to rescue him.

Eagles & Whales

These are humpback whales right in front of our campsite in Haines, AK. Today we saw a pod of at least 6-8 whales. The dog at the boat barked everytime the blow was heard



More whales






Below is a picture of Fort Seward in Hines (first army post in Alaska)







While in Haines, we also camped one night at Chilkoot State Recreation Area with only two other campng. Finally used the gazebo!!





This a young eagle by the Chilkoot River (where I caught my first Dolly Varden) and they are quite agressive towards seagulls who were chasing small fish (called hooligans)





This the adult eagle right in front of our campsite

 The Happy Fisherman on the Toad River

What a view, but no fish!!!!

The Big Bear taking a picture of the real bear!

Poor Bessie.  The only way to get her in for the night.....

Mile 0 in Dawson Creek on Thursday, May 12

Finallly, A Quilt Store!  Fort Nelson, BC

Too close to the road

This guy was very busy eating grubs.

 Wish we could have seen his face!  He was beautiful!

Bessie Slept in Today

Bessie Slept In Today   (May 14, 2011)

Yesterday, Friday the 13^th, was a good day for wildlife viewing, but poor Bessie was quite pooped by the time we pulled in to Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park.  We got up very early (5 am) after camping by the Sikani River Thursday night.  The first 50 miles or so we saw nothing buy beautiful landscape, but it appeared to be too cold for critters (31ºF).  Then we started spotting them: first a pair of whopping cranes, a mama bear and two little cubs that retreated as we slowed down (one little one scrambled up the nearest tree and we couldn’t get pictures) several moose, many deer, Stone sheep, more deer and endless mountains and streams. We stopped at Ye Old Quilt Shoppe before Fort Nelson and I bought a “project” to take home.  A mid-morning snack was in order, by then, so we found the Northern Rockies café in Fort Nelson for breakfast sandwiches and I had a Red Fog (red tea, vanilla and steamed milk) that I want to duplicate at home.  It was delicious.

Bernardo finally was persuaded to stop and try fishing (see pictures) the Toad River, but after an hour he gave up and we had a nice hot meal in the RV. River fairly deep and very cold water but what a setting!!

Muncho Lake had been our destination but it was totally frozen over which means everything except a very pretty lodge was closed.  They had the monopoly on diesel, so we paid $6.99/gal!!  Fortunately we didn’t need much, but we like to top off the tank just in case.  The roads go for miles with nothing from one very small town to another.

Liard Hot Springs was our next choice and what a spot!  This is the busiest and prettiest Provincial Park in BC but this weekend is slow because last weekend was a three-day holiday and next weekend is Long Weekend.  So we are very lucky. But there was one more bear to see before we got here (see pic) and he was a big one!  We’ve learned now that it’s best not to stop to take pictures as the bears get too accustomed to humans this way, so we’re going to try to just slow down and quickly snap a couple if we can.

Liard’s main attraction is a hot spring where everyone congregates and soaks in the wonderful sulfur-infused water.  The upper spring has been permanently closed due to serious bear problems.  The hike to the spring is about a quarter mile on a board walk (see pic) and the upper spring is about another quarter mile.  It’s worth the trek and lots of fun to meet people who share this adventure. Nice to feel clean again after no shower in the morning.

We both got up pretty early (Bernardo at 5, me at 6) but Bessie could not be persuaded to even lift her head.  Even the smell of bacon didn’t impress her.  She finally decided around 9 to make the effort.  After two walks she’s back in her bed and glad her little house is not moving.

So we’re taking the rest of the day easy, and leave tomorrow for Watson Lake where we should get wifi, hot showers and a laundry!

And here we are in Watson Lake at another "RV Park": side by side but wonderful showers and all the laundry gets done at once!  We're even watching 60 Minutes as I write this.  Tomorrow we're searching for a more scenic Provinicial Park, and there are many.  But we will be dry-camping so we need to start out nice and clean, with the tanks full and the fridge packed.

I'll label the pictures on the post.  I send them separately.  Still haven't figured this out entirely.  Maybe by July......

Liard Hot Springs

Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park is a unique park located in B.C. north of Muncho Lake (which still frozen). The park has many sites all located in a beautiful forest with the main attraction being two large pools created by a hot spring cascading from the mountain in a geological formation called tufas. Daria and I were able to enjoy this relaxing setting a couple of times also meeting some interesting people including "full time" RV folks, German tourists and local people willing to share their knowledge of the area. The springs also "helped" to provide much needed ablutions as we had not showered for a couple of days!!

We left early this morning heading towards Watson Lake in the Yukon and had some nice sightings of black bear, a fox carrying "breakfast" and several bisons. Very relaxing drive with virtually nobody in the road. Tonight we are catching up on laundry, showers, wireless connection and the various sanitary chores therefore, we had to settled for an RV park right in the middle of Watson Lake but the hot showers  and really made up for the less than scenic location. Tomorrow, we are heading to Teslin still in the Yukon with another stop before we cross briefly into Alaska at Haines and then returning to the Yukon for a few more stops leading to Alaska for our date with Denali and Mount McKinley on June 1.

So we have done 3,758 miles which according to my plan is about 38% of the adventure but of course it all depends how many "side" trips Daria has in mind.

Liard Hot Springs

After 13 days and close to 3,000 miles

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

We’ve had some obvious glitches with blogging here in Canada, so I’ll try to write a little every day and when I can get to a wireless connection I’ll send this off! 

Friday, Saturday and Sunday we stayed at Lake Louise CG. The campground was very nice and since it appears that most people have more sense than we do, they read the weather reports and saw lots more snow forecasted for Sunday and decided not to camp!  The RV stayed nice and cozy despite several feet of snow outside…Sunday morning; with the snow falling we stopped at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise for a fabulous Mother’s Day breakfast.  The views were beautiful, but we couldn’t see the lake for all the snow! Saturday and Sunday we drove the Bow Lake Parkway, looking for critters.  The parkway connects Banff and Lake Louise but is off limits to truckers so it’s scenic and quieter.  I got my nerve up on Saturday and allowed Bernardo to convince me to take the Banff Gondola up to the top of Sulfur Mountain.  I’m glad I did.  We love Yellowstone and the Tetons, but the Canadian Rockies are amazing.  Sorry, there are no words for the affect they have on your senses.

So, on to Japer via the Icefields Parkway:  an incredible drive parallel to the Continental Divide.  It’s 143 miles of Canadian Rockies on both sides.  Many of the lookouts were closed (due to snow) but we were able to stop at several and met lots of hikers and skiers that go for backcountry skiing on slopes open for those who dare to go! 

We were exhausted by the time we got to Jasper.  Bernardo had found a good National Park CG (one of two that are open along the way) and it’s just a couple of miles from the cute town of Jasper.  After fixing a nice salmon dinner (no, not fresh caught yet) we were putting things away when I looked outside and looked right at a coyote that had come by to either see what was cooking, or to meet Bessie.  I’m not quite sure which. There are reports of a mama bear in the area, but we haven’t seen her yet. 

Some skiers we met told us we had to drive west of Jasper to see Mt. Robson, the highest peak of the Canadian Rockies.  (See pictures)  So we took their advice on Tuesday and so glad we did! We took a nice long hike down to Outlander Falls (see pic) and just imagined what it was like before everything got too civilized. 

We drove back to Jasper to try to get an internet connection and a few groceries.  Food is incredibly expensive in Canada!  I hate to say it, but we’re going to Wal-Mart tomorrow when we get to Grand Prairie. We’re running low on wine and Bessie-food ☺.  Before heading back to the CG we drove a few miles east of Jasper for a hike through Maligne Canyon.  It was quite a trek down and more so up!  But, Bessie is happy while we hike so her little home stops moving and she can sleep. 

I wrote all the above yesterday, so here is the update:  we’re now in Grand Prairie, Alberta and had to opt for an RV park.  Not our favorite thing, but the Provincial Parks are mostly closed because of a very late spring.  Tomorrow we should hit Mile 0 of the Alaskan Highway!  Today we drove about 250 miles and saw lots of elk, a moose, deer and our first black bear!  Finally.  We’ve been told to plan to see many more. 

I’ll try to make future blogs shorter.